50 Chefs For 50 Years, #11 Richard Sax Part One, Farmer's Market Veggie Soup

I admit the color isn't appealing, but this soup is amazing on a cold day!

Back at the 50 chefs, and I have just about 7 months to finish.  Yikes!   This one is pretty relevant to me.  Back in 1994, I was given one of my all time favorite books.  Classic Home Desserts by Richard Sax.  305 recipes, all desserts, all so thoroughly researched.  Historic recipes, friend's recipes, some of his own personal favorites.  So why, you are wondering, am I making soup?  His last book which was published after his death, is where the soup recipe comes from.  The book is called Get In There And Cook.  So, if you read my blog, ever, you know this chef made an imprint on me.  He was a prolific writer, so respected in his field, and went to culinary school after he had been an high school English teacher.  The courage to pursue your dream.  Powerful stuff.

I am also the owner of The Cookie Lover's Cookie Book, which is okay.  I love Rose (she is coming up).  Richard's is a small book, and I really dislike cookbooks in the miniature.  But it is a 20 degree December day, and we needed soup.  So I started at Richard's last book.  But I will be back to bake a dessert, you can count on that. So lets get to the soup.

Generally speaking, I am not a big recipe follower for soup, but to honor this man, I decided to try my very best.  I wanted no meat, and this fit the bill perfectly.  I have also made his Pasta e Fagioli from this same book. My notes make it very clear I veered off the path on that one!  But I apparently liked it, and it is a popular blog post.  This soup is packed with flavor, and blending part of it makes it creamy and satisfying.

Where the magic happens...

Farmer's Market Vegetable Soup
adapted from Richard Sax

2 T olive oil
2 medium onions peeled and diced
3 leeks, trimmed and cleaned well, then sliced
6 carrots, peeled and sliced
3 cloves garlic, sliced
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon ground thyme
1/2 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
1/2 teaspoon dried tarragon
2 russet potatoes, peeled and cubed
36 oz. vegetable or chicken stock (I used both)
3/4 cup half and half
1/8 teaspoon nutmeg
1 can fire roasted tomatoes (my idea, I really wanted a little color and acid)
Fresh spinach...however much you like!


Sweat the onions, carrots, leeks, garlic, salt, thyme, pepper flakes and tarragon over low heat for about 10 minutes.  Stir often.  Add the potatoes and broth and bring to a simmer until the potatoes are cooked.
Using an immersion blender or a blender, puree up to one half of the soup and put back into the pot.  Add the cream, nutmeg and tomatoes.  Do not boil again, heat gently until ready to serve.  Add spinach just before serving to wilt.  Season with salt and pepper as desired.


So, I did change up the quantities a little.  Three onions is a lot of onions, and leeks here come in 3's so what to do with that last one?  The carrots were scrawny and I like them, so I doubled it. And the spices are sort of an eyeball guess.  Soup is not a science....it is an art.  So I am creating my own version from his work.  Simmering, the aroma is fantastic and the soup is perfect following an ice storm!  So, as it appears the cold has settled in early and will likely stick around, it's going to be soup season for awhile.  What are you waiting for?  Get in there and cook!  (Thanks Mr. Sax!)

Have you missed the previous chefs?  50 Chefs for 50 Years:
#1 Mom, and Steak In A Bag and Ambrosia Pie
#2 Chuck Williams (founder of Williams Sonoma) and Cheese Souffle and Chuck's Zucchini
#3 Dinah Shore, and Corn Crab Cakes with Jalepeño Tartar Sauce
#4 Deborah Madison, and Summer Squash Tatines
#5 & 6 Eli and Max Sussman, and The Best Fall Dinner EVER!
#6 Ina the Barefoot Contessa and Chopped Cape Cod Salad
#7 & 8, Julee Russo and Sheila Lukins, The Silver Palate and Chicken Puttanesca

#9 Paul Prudhomme and Mirliton Pirogues Stuffed With Andouille and Shrimp

#10 Giada's Pumpkin Spice Cookies

Pasta E Fagioli

Here we are.  January.  I have stripped the house of Christmas, except the nativity, which will get packed up today.  I can't put it back in the attic until Epiphany, it just doesn't seem right.  It also reminds me of Slava, which is the Serbian feast day and we celebrated this weekend as well.  Nothing too exciting, roast chicken and pita.  Serbian Pita, not pita bread! Delicious.  But so is soup when the temp dips into the 20's.

One of my favorite cook books of all time is Classic Home Desserts by Richard Sax.  After I started stalking his work, I was saddened to learn that he passed away a very young man.  So then my mission was to get all of his cookbooks.  Get In There And Cook is one of those books.  Published in 1997, it is a great book with little cooking lessons in each recipe, and was his last book.  He passed in 1995, and his dear friend finished the project for him.

The Pasta E Fagioli recipe is pretty straightforward and simple, but I went ahead and changed all those little things I do.  Like Pancetta for the Prosciutto, fire roasted tomatoes for the whole, change up the order a bit, and add some super healthy kale to finish.  I think Richard would approve.  He was a teacher, and his recipe is a perfect starting point to run away with a great dish.  Here's how mine went.

Pasta E Fagioli

2 T olive oil
1/3# thick sliced pancetta
2 yellow onions thickly sliced
1/2 red and 1/2 yellow bell pepper sliced in thin strips
2 carrots, cleaned and sliced thin
4 garlic cloves, minced
1/3 cup shredded basil leaves (fresh only)
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
Pinch dried red pepper flakes
2, 14.5oz cans of diced, fire-roasted tomatoes
2 cans canellini beans, rinsed
7 cups chicken stock (low salt is best)
2 1/2 cups dried pasta (short is best)
salt and pepper to taste
2 scallions thinly sliced on the diagonal
fresh grated parmesan cheese, for serving

In a large pot, heat oil and cook pancetta to desired state of crispy.  Add onions, carrots, peppers and saute until they begin to soften.  Add garlic, half of the basil, oregano and dried red pepper and stir occasionally to keep everything cooking evenly.  When the liquid is dried up in the pan, add the tomatoes the beans, and the chicken stock. When it boils, turn heat down to a simmer and let it go.  I let mine simmer for a few hours.  If the liquid is disappearing, add a little water and cover the pot.  It can be made to this point and chilled.

To serve, bring back to a boil, adding more liquid if necessary, and add the dried pasta.  Cook just to al dente.  Season with salt and pepper, add the rest of the basil, and ladle into bowls with a garnish of scallions and parmesan.  I also topped it with a little roasted kale. A drizzle of olive oil is good too!  Buon Appetito!